Continuity despite change. Erika Rianti (2005-2012), Sumatera Loom (2013-2015), palantaloom (2016-2022), and since 2023 PT. Songket Bernhard Bart. Independent now, Bernhard runs the studio as he did before, thus ensuring that his work continues.
The weaving studio (established 2005) focuses primarily on recreating the traditional silk and metallic Minangkabau songkets with the goal to preserve and spread the knowledge of hand weaving intricately patterned songkets. A lot of research is done to make as closest a reproduction as possible, both design and quality.
Besides making replicas of old songkets, Bernhard and his team of weavers are able to adapt for weaving any kind of motif as intricate it may be, be it taken from stone statues, wood carving or newly designed motifs, using only precious material like pure silk and thin metallic imitation gold thread or real gilded thread. Most importantly, the studio is still using the different old weaving techniques, yet now assisted by the Laotian pattern heddle (storing system), to maintain the high quality of the songkets of earlier times.
The workshop carries out the entire production of making songket under one roof: designing the patterns, dyeing the silk (mostly with organic dye), warping the loom, making the heddles and picking the pattern, weaving, and adding finishes of pillow lace or fringes. Everything is prepared on-site except for silk and metallic thread, which must be purchased.
The team consists of 9 young people from the village or the neighbourhood. They all got a thorough training at the studio and are proud to be able to weave as expertly as their ancestors.
Bernhard Bart came to West Sumatra, Indonesia, in 1996, to learn the language. Travelling pretty extensively in this region he soon noticed the decline in all kinds of handicrafts, especially in the weaving of songket, which was once flourishing. He decided that something had to be done to keep the knowledge of this traditional handicraft alive and wanted to prove